Degrowth Meaning: How Can I Make My Fashion Sustainable?
Unsustainability of Fast Fashion
Image Credit: Patrick Chappatte
With the rapid growth of fast fashion sales over the years, both workers and our planet have suffered the consequences. According to the Business Research Company, sales from fast fashion companies are predicted to grow from $122.98 billion to $142.06 billion in 2024, with a compound annual growth rate of 15.5%.[1] As a result of these proliferating companies, each year the fashion industry makes up 4% of the world's waste, with approximately 92 million tons of waste created from garments.[2]
The fashion and textile industries are also responsible for an excessive amount of water being utilized. The Ellen Macarthur Foundation states that fabric dyeing contributes to 20% of the worldwide wastewater and about 93 million cubic meters of water is used.[3] According to Vanessa Turk, writer of The GW Law Environmental and Energy Law Blog, it takes about 700 gallons of water to construct a single cotton shirt— to put that in perspective, that is enough to fill an entire hot tub.[4]
It isn’t just our planet that’s paying the price of affordable clothing. The workers— some as young as five years old— are also exploited in the industry.[5] Granted salaries as low as 10 to 20 cents an hour and working up to 16 hours every day, these workers are expected to work in unsafe conditions, often exposed to poor ventilation and crowded environments, as well as forced to endure physical and verbal abuse.[6][7] Many of these sweatshops are located in these sweatshops are located overseas and exploit the lower classes in countries including China, India, and Bangladesh.[8]
What is Degrowth?
Image Credit: Ben Denzer, NYT
In the wake of these disturbing numbers, the idea of “degrowth” has gained recognition. Originating in 1972, the French philosopher André Gorz created the phrase after deciphering the correlation between the production growth of materials and a capitalist system.
In the world of fast fashion industries, the meaning of degrowth promotes sustainability by decelerating the speed and abundance of clothes being made within these companies.[9] These actions will assist in circumventing further harm to workers and the earth and obstruct the rapid growth of the fast fashion industry.
For example, if a company has a decrease in demand for a product, workers will be required to work for fewer hours. In addition, the amount of garment waste will decrease, aiding the planet’s health. The companies will still remain afloat, but will pay their workers a reasonable salary with a healthy work schedule.
Arguments Against Degrowth
Arguments against the movement stem from a concern for job loss, as a result of the decrease in consumption and consumer demand the degrowth meaning promotes. Blake Alcott researcher at University of Leeds, School of Earth and Environment, said in 2011, “Economic shrinkage in richer countries is accompanied by increased unemployment, [which is] a bad enough problem in itself but also a barrier to voters’ acceptance of the degrowth path.”[10] Alcott continues to explain the importance of maintaining jobs around the world and how employment should be prioritized: “To make a smaller economy more socially sustainable, as well as to make the degrowth project more attractive to voters, the problem of potentially large-scale joblessness therefore deserves attention.”
While these problems do deserve attention, the degrowth movement is fighting for sustainable changes for exploited workers. The movement encourages dramatic changes to how sweatshop workers are treated— not promoting job loss, but providing a drastic change in working conditions.[15]
How are companies adhering to the degrowth movement?
Image Credit: Heuritech
A service called Heuritech, created in 2013, uses AI technology to predict upcoming fashion trends to reduce overstock from clothing websites.[11] Collabing with popular fashion companies such as Prada, Dior, Adidas, Louis Vuitton, and New Balance, the modern technology can detect what fashion is popular in the media, looking at patterns, colors, shape, etc in order to create high-demand items and reduce items that would otherwise end up in wastes.[12]
Barry McGeough, formal global Vice President of Innovation at Wolverine Worldwide, an American footwear company, states on Heuritech’s website, “What we like about the ability to use social media is that it’s pure consumer intention.[13] We are able to find what people say they actually want so we can start to design into statistical intention.”
The company also endorses their product as improving the sustainability of the fashion industry. Heuritech claims on their website, “What we like about the ability to use social media is that it’s pure consumer intention. We are able to find what people say they actually want so we can start to design into statistical intention.”
How can I contribute to the degrowth movement?
According to Vogue Business, degrowth’s meaning is to heal the relationship between fashion and the planet. It starts with action from consumers. When looking at how much money fast fashion companies currently make from their current policies, the chances that they’ll adopt this movement are slim to none.[14] Don’t worry though, it’s quite easy to help the degrowth movement flourish and promote sustainability.
Instead of supporting unethical fast fashion brands, try researching smaller businesses or other brands that are making efforts to improve the sustainability of their products. Smaller ethical brands I feel have fashionable options are My Mum Made It and House of Sunny, and those are just two of thousands of sustainable businesses! When looking for more affordable options in my clothes, I love going to thrift shops and local consignment shops with my friends or using online second-hand shops, like Depop, Poshmark, or Ebay.
Conclusion
The most efficient way a consumer can help is to slow down shopping habits or to not buy. Try looking in your closet and figure out ways to wear the clothes you already have. If you enjoy following different fashion trends coming in and out of style, you can utilize what you already have to fit your desired aesthetic. Don’t be scared to display your creativity and personality through your fashion!
Frequently asked questions:
What is the concept of degrowth?
The meaning of degrowth encourages a sustainable future in fashion by decreasing the amount of products produced. It fights for fair and healthy working conditions for those in sweatshops that will result in a decrease in consumption from buyers.
What is an example of degrowth?
When a company is not mass producing items that will leave the unsold excess in the waste, they are contributing to degrowth. For consumers, degrowth demonstrates a decrease in buying and overconsumption. Individuals, in addition, are encouraged to shop sustainably.
What are the key principles of degrowth
The main objective of the degrowth movement means healing the relationship between the earth and fashion promoting a sustainable future in clothes. “Degrowing” individuals' closets and shopping habits will aid in decreasing the harm performed on the planet.
Is degrowth the opposite of growth?
Yes! Degrowth promotes decreasing the amount of products purchased by consumers, slowing down the amount of waste affected by the fashion industry. Fast fashion companies are encouraged to produce less products so there is a reduction in the amount of waste sourced from garments.
Written by Kara Haas
Kara is a high school student who is an aspiring writer. She is hoping to study journalism in college to write about the fashion industry in the future. As well as having a passion for writing, Kara also loves to study fashion and try new, different looks out of her comfort zone. In her free time she loves baking, trying new makeup looks, and watching cartoons.
References:
1. “Fast Fashion Market Size, Share, Analysis, Trends, Growth Forecast 2024-2033.” The Business Research Company, www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com/report/fast-fashion-global-market-report. Accessed 24 Apr. 2024.
2. Lindner, J. (2024, February 26). The most important fast fashion statistics [2024]. GITNUX. https://gitnux.org/fast-fashion-statistics/
3. It’s time for a circular economy. How to Build a Circular Economy | Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (n.d.). https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/
4. Law, GW Environmental and Energy. “Fast Fashion: Polluting Our Water Millions of Clothing Items at a Time.” The GW Point Source, 4 Oct. 2023, blogs.gwu.edu/law-gwpointsource/2023/10/02/fast-fashion-polluting-our-water-millions-of-clothing-items-at-a-time/#:~:text=Environmental%20havoc%20by%20the%20fast%20fashion%20industry&text=In%20order%20to%20produce%20a,has%20harmful%20effects%20on%20ecosystems.
5. “Sweatshop Workers.” The World Counts, www.theworldcounts.com/challenges/people-and-poverty/slavery-and-sweatshops/sweatshop-workers-conditions. Accessed 24 Apr. 2024.
6. “Women and Sweatshops.” Women and Global Human Rights, webster faculty, faculty.webster.edu/woolflm/sweatshops.html#:~:text=Conditions%20in%20Sweatshops,not%20compensated%2C%20and%20sexual%20harassment. Accessed 24 Apr. 2024.
7. “Cambodian Female Workers in Nike, Asics and Puma Factories Suffer Mass Faintings.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 24 June 2017, www.theguardian.com/business/2017/jun/25/female-cambodian-garment-workers-mass-fainting.
8. Nguyen, Lei. “The Danger of Sweatshops.” Earth.Org, Earth.Org, 4 Mar. 2024, earth.org/sweatshops/#:~:text=In%20several%20manufacturing%20nations%2C%20including,India%20is%20barely%2058%20cents.
9. “Slow down and Scale Back: Degrowth in the Fashion Industry.” Slow down and Scale Back: Degrowth in the Fashion Industry : Fashion Revolution, www.fashionrevolution.org/degrowth-in-the-fashion-industry/. Accessed 24 Apr. 2024.
10. Elsevier. (n.d.). Should degrowth embrace the job guarantee?. Journal of Cleaner Production. https://degrowth.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Alcott-2013.pdf
11. Heuritech, AI-powered insights to back fashion intuitions. Heuritech. (2024, April 26). https://www.heuritech.com/
12. Sumedha Vemulakonda S., & Name. (2023, July 6). Why we should be talking about degrowth in fashion. Remake. https://remake.world/stories/news/why-we-should-be-talking-about-degrowth-in-fashion/
13. Wolverine worldwide. Wolverine Worldwide. (2024, January 22). https://www.wolverineworldwide.com/
14. Webb, B. (2022, January 27). Degrowth: The future that fashion has been looking for?. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/degrowth-the-future-that-fashion-has-been-looking-for
15. says:, D. S. (2023, October 6). Is degrowth against workers’ interests? Climate & Capitalism. https://climateandcapitalism.com/2023/10/06/is-degrowth-against-workers-interests/